Chris Connor reviews the ninth episode of The New Look…
The New Look gears up for a finale with a look to the past and hints of the future as both Dior and Chanel look to cement their legacy and find ways out of their respective situations. Christian is short on staff to meet his deadlines, needing seamtresses and not wanting to steal from rival fashion houses. Coco meanwhile is trying to work out an arrangement with the Wertheimer’s while dealing with Spatz and Elsa.
Elsa and Coco’s relationship, which has been a focal point of the season, binds this whole episode as we cut back to their childhood in the early 1900s before revisiting them post war. It is clear that Elsa clings to her childhood friend, wanting to keep hold of those precious memories, while Coco seeks to exorcise the demons of her past and move into a bright future.
The episode is cleverly framed with two awkward dinners, one featuring the extended Dior family following their father’s death, the other between Coco, Elsa, Spatz and Coco’s nephew Andre. It mirrors the circumstances of the pair and the support networks they have around them, Christian supported by loving friends and family, while Coco is more insular and cut off, trashing the few meaningful relationships in her life.
The greater focus on Dior’s rising fashion empire and the support or lack thereof from those around him adds an extra dynamic, coupled with his grief over the loss of his father. It is a shame that the emphasis on the iconic designs and birth of some of fashion’s most recognisable creations, has been left often to the side, hopefully this is something that will be addressed in season 2.
With an episode to go, it will be interesting to see where season 1 leaves these icons as we have yet to revisit the opening sequences of the 1950s, indicating these will be our main focus for season 2. There is a lot to wrap up and it will be interesting to see what sort of note the show goes out on, especially with the emotional climax to this episode.
If somewhat uneven, this episode in particular shows The New Look is not without merits and with a cast this strong, it does enough to hold the audience’s attention. The finale will have to satisfactorily wrap up the loose threads of this series while setting up the next season.
Chris Connor